![]() From Glasgow, there is a daily Scottish CityLink coach from Buchanan bus station to Kennacraig (£22.10 return) – the departure point for ferries to Islay and Jura (£13.40 to Islay, £3.20 for connecting ferry to Jura).If you're catching public transport, there's a good chance you'll probably end up doing quite a bit of walking on Islay (you'll definitely be doing a lot of waiting). Virgin Trains has returns from London to Glasgow from £60, and from Birmingham to Glasgow from £32. For information on the Orwell Society, see (membership £20 a year). Burnbank Cottage in Craighouse sleeps four from £465 a week. ![]() Barnhill sleeps eight from £1,000 a week. ![]() Around the coast, we regularly see otters and seals and up in the hills spot deer, owls and golden eagles. Compared with our London home they have much more freedom and often cycle by themselves up to Corran sands, a beautiful white-sand beach where we swim and go kayaking. Now I’m able to bring my own family and watch my children (9 and 11) doing the same things I did as a child. My grandfather was born and grew up on Jura and I’ve been coming here all my life. Kirtseen’s children braving the sea on Jura. Jura highlights by those who know and love the islandĬlaire Fletcher, co-founder, Lussa Distillery For him, Jura was home.”Ĭlimbing the creaking stairs that lead to his bedroom, it’s easy to imagine hearing the clatter of the typewriter sounding out from this secluded spot, punching out the dialogue between Winston and Julia, and the concepts behind Big Brother and doublethink – words and ideas that, seven decades after it was published, are still being read and discussed the world over. Everything my Dad wrote and said indicates that he wanted to be here full time. “Jura was a wonderful place to be a child”, he recalls. Orwell was battling tuberculosis during his stay on Jura and died seven months after 1984 was published, but Richard remembers his time on the island fondly. He would recognise the place instantly if he were to step through the door today.” If you stay here, you’re really treading in Orwell’s footsteps. “It’s deliberate that we haven’t changed much. “You have to bring your own supplies if you want to stay here,” says Damaris Fletcher, on hand to provide us with tea and cake, as our small group of Orwell Society members are allowed free reign to explore the home. A generator supplies the electricity for light and there is a small gas-powered fridge. But since 2011 the Orwell Society has been running trips to Barnhill every two years, led by Orwell’s son, Richard Blair, now 75 (the next is in 2020).Ī spacious, four-bedroom home, Barnhill, with its Aga, now-faded wall maps of post-war Europe, well-thumbed copies of 1984 and comfortably sagging armchairs, seems to have barely changed in the 70-plus years since Orwell began writing 1984. The Fletcher family, who have owned the house since before Orwell stayed there, only allow self-catering bookings for a minimum of a week. Orwell came to Barnhill and Jura for the isolation. The whirlpool was impossible to make out as the small motorboat I travelled on sailed north from Craighouse to visit Barnhill on waters as still as a boating lake. It was two hours before father and son were rescued by a passing lobster fisherman. They lost the boat and had to swim to a remote cove. A whirlpool amid the coastal waters three miles north-west of Barnhill, it almost took the writer’s life when his boat got sucked into it while on the water with his son. “We all teach newcomers about the island and to be especially careful of Corryvreckan.”Ĭorryvreckan is a name that plays a small but vital part in the story of Orwell’s time here. “Everybody does know everyone else’s business on Jura – but it’s a protective thing,” she says. “I came from Newcastle six years ago to live here with my then boyfriend, who is a local, and it has a charm that really gets under your skin”, she says. But, as Rachael explains, true understanding of the island requires more than a daytrip from Islay to sip the malts. Tasting tours of the peaty Jura whiskies are one of the main draws for visitors, alongside trout fishing, deer-stalking and, of course, the landscape. “Life moves slowly here, even by Hebrides standards,” says Rachael Jones, visitor centre manager at Jura Distillery, as we stand outside the entrance to the low, white-brick building whose chimneys dominate Craighouse, the main settlement. Swathes of the island are barely touched by man the mossy corries, lumpy fields of peat, the occasional shadow of a golden eagle flying overhead, the crags, gullies and lochs all contribute to an atmosphere of glorious–yet–eerie emptiness. Photograph: Ullstein Bild/Getty ImagesĮven on the sunniest days, there is a brooding, melancholic air to Jura. George Orwell at his typewriter in the mid 1940s.
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